Tucked into a narrow valley where cliffs plunge into the Ligurian Sea, Riomaggiore is the southern gateway to Cinque Terre — and it doesn’t tiptoe into your memory. It bursts in with vibrant character, stacked pastel buildings, and a harbor that feels plucked from a painting. While often overlooked in favor of its more photographed neighbor, Manarola, Riomaggiore has a raw, lived-in charm that rewards those who slow down and explore its layers.
This is a town of contrasts: dramatic yet inviting, bustling yet soulful. It’s where you hear the clink of espresso cups before 8 a.m., and watch boats pushed into the sea by weathered hands as the day begins. While it shares the same coastal DNA as its Cinque Terre siblings, Riomaggiore marches to the beat of its own fishing village drum — a little grittier, a little steeper, a little bolder.
The Same
Riomaggiore, the southernmost village in Italy’s Cinque Terre, charms visitors with colorful cliffside homes, a lively harbor, and unforgettable sea views. We loved relaxing by the harbor, sometimes with a glass of wine, sometimes barefoot after a beach walk. Narrow alleys and steep stairways wind from the train station down to the water, creating stunning viewpoints at every turn. With casual cafés, fresh seafood, gelato shops, and easy rail access, Riomaggiore offers the perfect mix of scenery, local flavor, and authentic Italian coastal life.
- SEE: Colorful harbor and cliffside views, hiking trail to Manarola on the Via dell’Amore, and sunset overlooks from the Castello di Riomaggiore.
- EAT: Fresh seafood pasta or fried seafood cones (fritto misto) from local trattorias and seaside stands.
- DRINK: Local Cinque Terre white wine or a spritz at a harborfront bar.
Via Colombo:
Riomaggiore’s main street, Via Colombo, is a vertical ribbon lined with trattorias, bars, and tiny shops offering everything from handmade ceramics to limoncello in miniature bottles. It’s the beating heart of the village; where kids run ahead for gelato while adults linger outside wine bars watching the village light up as the sun begins to set.
Despite the tourist flow, it retains a grounded feel. You’ll pass local grandmothers balancing shopping bags on the steep incline, teens chatting in tight alleyways, and fishermen returning home with their catch of the day.
The Harbor:
Descending Via Colombo brings you to Riomaggiore’s small but dramatic harbor, framed by candy-colored buildings and jagged cliffs. There’s a ramp where locals launch boats, stone steps where sunbathers lounge, and flat rocks where kids (and the young-at-heart) leap into the sea.
Unlike Manarola, this harbor has a more raw, adventurous feel. ideal for those who don’t mind climbing a bit to find a perch for their beach towel. During golden hour, the light hits just right, setting the buildings aglow and turning the sea into a silver-blue mirror. It’s one of the best places in Cinque Terre to watch the sunset with a bottle of wine and a few focaccia sandwiches.
Church of San Giovanni Battista:
Uphill and slightly off the main drag, this 14th-century church offers a serene break from the harbor buzz. Its simple stone façade hides beautiful interiors and a peaceful courtyard with benches to rest. From this higher vantage point, the sea becomes a sliver in the distance, and the terraced rooftops come into full view. The bells toll softly through the day, a reminder of how deeply rooted this place is in history.
The DINKs
Via dell’Amore
Via dell’Amore, the famous “Lover’s Lane” connecting Riomaggiore and Manarola, was unfortunately closed for repairs when we visited—but that didn’t stop us from wanting to experience its charm. We still made our way to the entrance, hoping to catch a glimpse of the iconic path and leave a lock as a symbol of our visit. Ironically, the hardest part wasn’t the closure—it was trying to find a lock! After searching every corner of town with no luck, we finally had to travel all the way to La Spezia just to buy one. It made for a bit of a detour, but in the end, it added another unexpected chapter to our Cinque Terre story.
Harbor Walkway
Since Via dell’Amore was closed during our visit, we took the harbor walkway instead, heading from the heart of Riomaggiore down toward the small marina and boat ramp. The path winds along the rocks, and even though it’s short, it’s absolutely stunning—offering sweeping views of the Ligurian Sea on one side and the pastel-colored buildings rising steeply above the cove on the other. As we walked, we paused often to take in the scenery, snap photos, and just breathe in the salty air. At the bottom, we found a quiet spot by the water to watch the waves crash against the rocks and enjoy the peaceful energy of the harbor. Even without access to Via dell’Amore, this little stretch of coastline gave us everything we were hoping for.
The Family
With kids in tow, Riomaggiore required a bit more planning. The hills and stairs were a challenge at times, but we found ways to make it work. The harbor became our favorite hangout; easy to access and endlessly entertaining. The kids loved jumping from the rocks, and we loved that the water was clear and calm enough for safe swimming (with close supervision).
We also appreciated the public elevator (yes, really!) that helped skip some of the steepest parts of the town. Bonus: the view from the top made for some of our best family photos of the trip.
Summary:
Riomaggiore may not be the prettiest village in Cinque Terre; though we’d argue that point but it’s definitely the boldest. It wears its working-class roots and rugged terrain like a badge of honor. It’s where beauty and grit meet, where sunsets and staircases collide.
Whether you’re clinking glasses on a quiet terrace or wiping gelato off your child’s chin as fishing boats bob in the harbor, Riomaggiore delivers moments that feel unfiltered and unforgettable.
In our double take, we discovered two different rhythms; one slow and romantic, one joyful and bustling and came away with the same truth: Riomaggiore has soul. And once you’ve stepped into its sunlit alleys and tasted its sea air, it stays with you.
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