Two Takes on the Road to Hāna(Hawaii): Waterfalls & Other National Wonder

The Road to Hana, a 64.4-mile stretch along Maui’s northeastern coast, is more than just a drive, it’s an immersion into Hawaii’s lush landscapes and rich history. Originally a footpath used by native Hawaiians, the route was transformed into a road in the early 20th century, officially opening in 1926. By the 1960s, it was fully paved, making the once-isolated town of Hana accessible to travelers.

The Same

We all first visited Maui on a multi-island cruise. The Family explored the island before we had kids, and the DINKs actually came back a few years later to stay in Hāna, giving us the chance to spend three full days exploring all the stops along the Road to Hāna. There are so many stops on this road that even with multiple visits we have not covered all of them.

Ho’okipa Beach

At first glance from the lookout at Ho’okipa Beach, it seemed like the shoreline was scattered with nothing but big, smooth rocks. But as I looked closer, I realized every single “rock” was actually a sea turtle, basking in the sun. I was instantly excited to head down and see them up close. The section of the beach where they rest is roped off to protect them, but the rest of the beach is open for lounging and swimming. It was amazing to share the sand with so many of these gentle giants in such a beautiful setting.

Twin Falls (Mile Marker 2:)

Our adventure began at Twin Falls near Mile Marker 2. This spot, known for its easily accessible waterfalls and pools, offers a refreshing start to the journey. Originally free, they have started charging for parking which is well worth it because now you dont have to wait around for a spot to open up.

A short hike led us to the lower falls, where we took a quick dip in the cool waters. We enjoyed swimming under the water fall that we had previously missed out on during a previous trip. The first time we visited, it had rained for days (It is a rainforest after all.) and the falls were ranging.

The nearby farm stand provided delicious smoothies, perfect for recharging before hitting the road again.

Kaulanapueo Church (Mile Marker 3.5:)

A brief detour brought us to Kaulanapueo Church around Mile Marker 3.5. Built in 1853 from coral stones hauled from Waipio Bay, this historic church stands as a testament to the island’s rich cultural tapestry.

Huelo Lookout Fruit Stand (Mile Marker 4.5)

We stopped at the Huelo Lookout Fruit Stand. Here, we savored fresh tropical fruits and enjoyed panoramic views of the coastline, a delightful combination of taste and scenery.

Painted Grove of rainbow eucalyptus trees (Mile Marker 6.7)

Approaching Mile Marker 6.7, the Painted Grove of rainbow eucalyptus trees caught our attention. Their vibrant, multicolored bark created a surreal landscape, prompting us to pause and admire nature’s artistry.

Waikamoi Nature Trail (Mile Marker 9.5:)

At Mile Marker 9.5, we ventured onto the Waikamoi Nature Trail. This short loop trail meandered through a lush rainforest, providing a peaceful walk amidst towering trees and vibrant foliage.

The Garden of Eden (Mile Marker 10.6)

We spent about an hour wandering through this botanical paradise, which features more than 700 labeled plant species, from towering bamboo to colorful heliconia and rare palms. One of the most impressive sights was the 100-year-old mango tree, massive and stunning in person.

The garden isn’t just about plants, though. It offers sweeping ocean vistas and a stunning overlook of Puohokamoa Falls. We learned that this location was actually used during the opening scene of Jurassic Park, and once you’re there, it’s easy to see why, it truly feels like you’ve stepped into a prehistoric world.

There’s a $20 per person entrance fee (as of our visit), and while that may seem a little steep, we thought it was well worth the cost for the beauty, tranquility, and photo opportunities. There’s also a small art gallery and snack shop on-site.

Puohokamoa Falls (Mile Marker 10.8)

If you don’t pay the entry fee into The Garden of Eden, just past Mile Marker 10.8, you can catch a glimpse of the Puohokamoa Falls. Though access is limited, the sight of the cascading water amidst the verdant backdrop is captivating.

Ke’anae Arboretum (Mile Marker 16)

At Mile Marker 16, the Ke’anae Arboretum showcased a diverse collection of tropical plants. Walking through the arboretum, we marveled at the variety of flora, including numerous banana and ginger species.

Ching’s Pond (Mile Marker 16.8)

Ching’s Pond at Mile Marker 16.8 is a hidden gem. Though popular among locals for cliff diving, we chose to admire the serene pool from the bridge, appreciating its tranquil beauty.

Ke’anae Peninsula

A short drive led us to the Ke’anae Peninsula. This lava-formed outcropping offered dramatic ocean views and a glimpse into traditional taro farming practices, connecting us to Maui’s agricultural heritage.

The Halfway to Hana Snack Shop (Mile Marker 17 1/3)

The Halfway to Hana Snack Shop at Mile Marker 17 1/3 was a delightful pit stop. We indulged in banana bread and coconut candy, local treats that energized us for the journey ahead.

Upper Waikani Falls (Mile Marker 19.5)

Upper Waikani Falls, or the “Three Bears,” at Mile Marker 19.5, featured three parallel waterfalls cascading into a pool. The sight was both powerful and serene, embodying the essence of Maui’s natural beauty. The first time the Dinks visited, it had rained so much that the three waterfalls had mergered into a single one rushing over the clif edge.

Lava tube (Mile Marker 23)

Just after Mile Marker 23, we discovered a lava tube. This 140-foot cave offered a brief but intriguing exploration into Maui’s volcanic past. While we went into it, we did not go too far.

Pua’a Kaa State Wayside Park (Mile Marker 22)

Pua’a Kaa State Wayside Park at Mile Marker 22 provided a refreshing waterfall and freshwater pool. We took a quick dip, enjoying the cool waters amidst the lush surroundings.

Hanawai Falls (Mile Marker 24)

Hanawai Falls near Mile Marker 24 showcased a stunning waterfall viewable from the bridge. The cascading water against the verdant backdrop was a photographer’s dream.

Coconut Glen’s (Mile Marker 27.5)

Funky roadside stop serving vegan coconut ice cream in unique tropical flavors like lilikoi, coffee toffee, and lemongrass. Colorful, boho jungle stand made from reclaimed materials—very photogenic and relaxed. Great stop to stretch your legs and cool off with a refreshing treat before tackling the winding road ahead.

At Mile Marker 28.8, the Nahiku Marketplace offered a taste of local culture. We sampled kalua pork tacos and browsed through unique Hawaiian products, immersing ourselves in the island’s vibrant community.

Turning onto ‘Ula’ino Road at Mile Marker 31, we explored the Hana Lava Tube, a vast underground cavern that provided insight into Maui’s volcanic activity. Nearby, Kahanu Garden showcased the Pi’ilanihale Heiau, the largest temple in Hawaii, reflecting the island’s rich spiritual history.

Waianapanapa Black Sand Beach (Mile Marker 32.2)

Waianapanapa Black Sand Beach was an absolute highlight of our time on the Road to Hāna. As soon as we arrived, we were blown away by the dramatic contrast between the jet-black sand, formed by ancient volcanic activity, and the vivid turquoise waters crashing against the shore. The scenery was so surreal it felt like we had stepped into a postcard.

We took our time exploring the area, starting with a walk along the rugged lava rock coastline where we discovered hidden sea caves and blowholes. There’s a short but scenic coastal trail that offers stunning cliffside views, and we couldn’t stop taking photos. We also ventured into the freshwater cave pools tucked just off the beach—icy cold but such a cool experience.

Swimming at the beach can be a bit rough depending on the waves, so we mostly stuck to wading and exploring. Still, just relaxing on the black sand and listening to the sound of the waves made it feel like time slowed down. If you plan to visit, keep in mind that reservations are required through the Hawaii State Parks system, and they do check. It’s worth booking in advance, especially since Waianapanapa is one of the most popular—and beautiful—stops on the entire drive.

Hana Tropicals at Mile Marker 33 introduced us to exotic tropical flowers and an orchid nursery. The vibrant blooms and fragrant air made for a sensory delight.

Arriving in Hana Town at Mile Marker 34, we experienced a place where time seemed to stand still. The town’s rich history and tranquil ambiance offered a perfect conclusion to our journey.

Wailua Falls (Mile Marker 45)

Wailua Falls at Mile Marker 45 captivated us with its towering cascade, easily viewable from the road. The sheer power and beauty of the falls were awe-inspiring.

Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park (Mile Marker 42)

$30 entrance fee per vehicle (good for 3 days and also valid for the Haleakalā summit) or it’s included in the National Parks pass. The Ohe’o Gulch, known as the Seven Sacred Pools, and the Pipiwai Trail, leading through a bamboo forest to Waimoku Falls, showcased the island’s diverse ecosystems.

  • Oheʻo Gulch (Seven Sacred Pools): A series of tiered freshwater pools connected by waterfalls—best seen after rainfall (but may be closed for swimming due to flash flood risk). Swimming is almost always prohibited, so check current conditions before you go.
  • Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls: We weent early in the day to avoid crowds and heat.Trailhead starts in the same parking lot as ʻOheʻo Gulch. 4-mile round-trip hike (moderate to challenging depending on weather and fitness). We did it in flip flops which is NOT recommendeed.

The Dinks

Camping at the Cabins at Waiʻānapanapa State Park

Staying in the cabins at Waiʻānapanapa was an unforgettable experience—worth it for the location alone. Just be aware: they sell out fast, so you’ll need to book the day the calendar opens (usually 30 days in advance on the state parks website).

There’s no air conditioning, and you’ll need to bring your own bedding. We grabbed affordable linens and pillows from Walmart, and they worked just fine. We also stocked up on local craft beer and snacks beforehand to enjoy the peaceful setting.

Waking up steps from the black sand beach and hiking trails was incredible. If you’re up for a rustic, no-frills stay in one of Maui’s most stunning spots, this is it.

Hamoa Beach (Mile Marker 50)

Hamoa Beach was absolutely stunning. Nestled in a lush, jungle-fringed cove, the beach’s crescent shape and soft, salt-and-pepper sand felt like something out of a postcard. As we made our way down the steep pathway to the shoreline, we were immediately struck by how pristine and untouched it felt—surrounded by sea cliffs and swaying palm trees, it was as peaceful as it was beautiful.

Hamoa Beach sits on land that was once part of the estate of famed author James A. Michener. He was so enchanted by it that he described Hamoa as one of the most beautiful beaches in the Pacific, and standing there ourselves, we couldn’t help but agree. Long before it gained attention from travel writers and tourists, though, this beach was an important gathering place for Native Hawaiians, used for fishing, canoe landings, and community gatherings. That cultural significance still lingers today in the peacefulness and natural beauty of the area.

The surf can be rough at times—especially in the winter months—but during our visit, the waves were okay.

Koki Beach (Mile Marker 51:)

Just a short drive further down the road, we stopped at Koki Beach. Koki has a completely different energy from Hamoa—it’s more rugged and wild, and it’s a favorite among local surfers because of its consistent waves. The sand here has a reddish tint, thanks to the red cinder cliffs that surround it, and the view of ‘Ālau Island just offshore adds a dramatic backdrop. It’s not ideal for swimming due to strong currents and rocky terrain, so we didn’t stay long.

Thai Food by Pranee (Mile Marker ~35, in Hāna Town)

This local food stand offers authentic Thai dishes made fresh to order and might be our favorite place in all of Maui. The outdoor seating is perfect for a post-hike or cabin meal. Don’t miss Drunken Noodles, Pad Thai, green curry, or their mango sticky rice if in season. They do prefer cash. Cash and it can get busy mid-day.

Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach

Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach from a distance, heeded warnings about the dangerous trail and chose safety over exploration.

On our return journey, the Maui Tropical Plantation offered a relaxing atmosphere to reflect on our adventure. Sipping on cocktails and enjoying a gourmet meal amidst lush gardens was the perfect end to our Road to Hana experience.

Palapala Ho’omau Church (Mile Marker 41)

Just past the Kipahulu entrance to Haleakalā National Park, turn down the narrow road toward the church (signposted). Charles Lindbergh’s Grave located at the peaceful Palapala Ho’omau Church offered a peaceful respite and a connection to history. This quiet, remote churchyard with ocean views and a serene atmosphere. A reflective, historical stop that many miss—but it offers a moment of calm after the adventurous drive.

The Road Beyond Kipahulu:

Known as the “Back Road” from Hāna or Piʻilani Highway (Hwy 31) this rugged, narrow, and partially unpaved, less traveled and potentially rough on rental cars (check your rental agreement most contacts are void if you go down this part, or so we hear). It does offers stunning cliffside views, arid landscapes, and a drastically different feel from the lush rainforest. Wee didn’t mean to go this far and as soon as the paved road ended and the dirt row narrowed we realized we had gone too far. So as soon as we found an inlet, we turned around and headed back to paved road.

Summary

The Road to Hāna isn’t just about getting from one place to another, it’s about the journey itself. With every mile, we encountered natural wonders, local flavors, and a deep sense of Hawaiian culture and history. Whether it’s your first time or your fifth, there’s always something new to discover. From waterfalls and beaches to fruit stands and lava tubes, the experience is as enriching as it is unforgettable. We’re already dreaming of our next trip down this legendary road.

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